The Way Of Wool - An Interview With Ruth Rands of HERD WEAR

Can you tell us the story behind founding Herd?
The seed of HERD WEAR was planted when, on returning from living in the USA I couldn’t find soft British wool to knit with. When I began researching, I fell in love with the British wool story and saw an opportunity to reignite the fire under the industry and save it from irrelevance as well as bring a spectacularly beautiful and beneficial product to the customer – super soft, luxurious, authentically British yarn and knitwear.
Have you always been passionate about sustainability? If so, where is this routed back to?
Yes, since I can remember walking in little red wellies in the pouring rain in Devon throughout my childhood I have loved being outside in all weathers. But it was in my first business, a wild organic seaweed food brand, that I understood how powerful purpose-led brands can be in creating environmental change and social impact as well as delivering beneficial products for customers. Kelp seaweed absorbs more carbon than the rainforests, can be used as rich soil fertilizer, enhances our health with its uniquely wide range of minerals, and harvesting it benefits rural economies in many ways. In HERD, we own the wool all the way from farm gate so we can accept only the absolute top quality fleeces and also make sure no toxic chemicals are used in the processing. This makes the finished product extremely special but also naturally biodegradable in soil. I believe when you feel connected with something you look after it, so I thank those wet and windy childhood walks for the connection I feel to the landscape around me.
Can you explain why wool is sustainable?
Wool is naturally biodegradable, with high levels of potassium so can be used to help soil retain water and enrich the plants. The lanolin is the name for the natural oils in the wool, which keep the sheep dry. When the wool is washed using natural detergents as we do at HERD, some of the lanolin remains in the wool and means the yarn and knitwear is characterful and gentle on the skin as well as being able to return to the soil at the end of its long life.
How can you tell if a wool product has been made ethically and sustainably? Can you explain some of the environmental pros and cons of wool?
Wool is a very sustainable raw material, so best to avoid products where it has been heavily treated e.g. had petrochemical-derived treatments or fibres added. Buy only from brands you trust and can get answers to your questions. Look for undyed shades. British made products are subject to animal welfare and labour laws that are more stringent than most overseas economies so they will almost certainly be ethically made (again, using brands you feel you can trust!).
For consumers do you have any advice about how you can shop responsibly and how you can support this movement?
Everyone is on their own journey with this, and where you are will depend on lots of different personal factors. For me personally it has been helpful to block out the noise, and really lean into my own personal style, which really hasn’t changed much over the years. I love every season spending time putting away the last season and looking forward to wearing much loved pieces. I also really look after my clothes, getting them repaired when needed. I think before buying anything and buy the best quality I can as I know I will wear it for ages.
Where do you find inspiration for the design, style and shape of your knitwear pieces?
I draw on natural patterns, such as in the bud and vine stitch of the Wyre Collection. I love looking at the past, on function and utility such as the need of fishermen to have a thick cable knit, or the need for a leg/wrist warmer to cover that draughty gap between clothes. I always want to add something special to a piece, femininity that makes it feel very special and a joy to wear. And how it’s made can completely change a style so we only work with the best makers. We could make things more cheaply but we actively choose not to and people come back to us again and again for quality.
Which is your favourite HERD knitwear piece from your collection, and why?
It is literally impossible to choose, but those I wear most is the Wyre Jumper in Mist and the Fleetwood Cardigan in Moss. They are my desert island pieces and I never go anywhere without them.
The photography and branding is extremely beautiful. How do you come up with your ideas?
So much of HERD is working collaboratively with people who are aligned with our ethos and aesthetic (like beautiful you Belle!). Our photography since the beginning has been done by Stephanie Sian Smith, an old and dear friend of mine. We work together but it feels seamless and natural and not like we need to use a lot of words – somehow it works. Creative collaborations like those are to be treasured.
Can you describe a perfect day?
A lovely moment for me every day is suppertime with my little family. When we all sit together and eat and talk about whatever we want, sharing our stories for a short hour the world fades and the present moment is all that matters.
What are the most cherished items you own and why?
I love my jewellery – every piece is very personal and I rarely change it. I love my pillows, I bought them when I was pregnant after staying in the most incredible hot springs hotel in California and had the best night’s sleep of my life. I am not sure one can ever own a cat but if you could then my big fluffy cat Marmalade is dearly beloved.
What was the last book you loved and why?
Confessions by Catherine Airey. A novel I loved. Set in rural Ireland and NY, both familiar places to me, and about the female experience.
What’s your favourite hotel and why?
Thyme Hotel in Southrop, Gloucestershire for the water meadow scent, for the incredible menu in the Ox Barn and all the beautiful natural details from the hand-drawn wallpaper down to the 100% wool socks and bath salts in the bedrooms.
Favourite restaurant?
I used to be a Londoner so was up to speed on all the groovy restaurants but now I live in the shires I am more than happy with an excellent local pub like the Woolpack Inn, Slad, Gloucestershire.
Your favourite artist?
I can’t choose. But I adore Tim Walker’s photography.
If you had to choose, are you happier in the city or country?
I live in the countryside which I love for the space and quiet and nature but I find I need the bustle and bright lights of the city too. Can I choose both equally?
What job would you do in a parallel life?
A dancer. When I was a child I used to want to be Kylie’s backing dancer! I already love what I do so if I had to choose something else it would have to be really great, so I’d be a dancer.






