The Cabbage Despatch: With Pooch Horsburgh
Pooch is a food producer on TV shows ranging from The Great British Bake Off to River Cottage. She divides her time between working with a smorgasbord of well-known chefs and food brands – both on their television shows and their cookbooks – as a food stylist and as a home economist. She lives in the Cotswolds with her husband Jason and her son, Alfie.
What do you love most about your job?
Can you describe a perfect day?
A perfect day work-wise for me would be a cookbook photoshoot at home. It’s a real hive of activity with a lot going and a lot to keep tabs on. But I love it! There will have been quite a lot of stress, sleepless nights and plate-juggling to get to that stage. But when we start shooting the first recipe, everything suddenly seems so worth it. The butterflies in your stomach float away and you settle into it all. When that first shot is done and we’re all huddled round the photographer’s laptop looking at what we’ve achieved, it’s the best feeling.
What are the most cherished items you own and why?
I’ve inherited various bits and pieces of amazing china from relatives and friends of the family. Some in sets, others just odds and ends. All of them get used regularly, both for work and at home. I think leaving them for ‘best’, hidden away in a box in the attic or in a cupboard, is such a shame. So even though the odd one gets chipped or broken, they’re in view, being used constantly. Some have even been stars on TV or in cookbooks and I always love to think how excited that might make their original owners.
What’s your favourite failsafe dish?
Roast chicken stuffed with garlic and tarragon butter, French fries and a crisp salad with a Dijon mustard-heavy dressing. Maybe a little sauce made from the chicken resting juices, crème fraiche and tarragon on the side too. It’s the perfect failsafe as far as I’m concerned. So easy to make – the oven does pretty much all the work – and far greater than the sum of its parts.
Dog walks, country pubs or gallery hopping: how do you spend your Sundays?
Sundays are a relaxed affair in our household. It will involve a big breakfast in our PJs, but quite early in the day because the four-year-old unfortunately doesn’t understand weekend lie-ins yet.
Where do you go for inspiration?
Everywhere! Social media, cookbooks, magazines, TV, restaurants, pubs, menus on a wall as I walk down a street, friends… the list goes on.
What was the last book you loved and why?
Having been an absolutely voracious reader for the first 25yrs of my life, I just seemed to suddenly stop. I’m trying to get back into reading for leisure and really enjoyed reading Nora Ephron’s Heartburn when I was on holiday last year.
What’s your favourite hotel and why?
I’m sticking close to home with this one. I absolutely love having The Rectory in Crudwell @therectoryhotel nearby. I’ve only stayed there once, but would love to stay again because their beds and the breakfast are the stuff of dreams. We are, however, there quite a lot for cocktails or dinner, or hanging out in their beautiful gardens during the day with a gang of friends. The staff are all so lovely, some have even become good mates.
Favourite restaurant?
Hmmmmm... very tricky question for me! Close to home I’d pick The Bell at Langford @thebelllangford. Tom and Pete can do no wrong in my eyes (they’ll almost certainly squirm at that comment!). They’re also great fun and really know their stuff and that shows in the brilliant service and the cooking that comes out of their kitchen. I’ve never ever had a sub-par plate of food there in all the many times we’ve eaten with them.
Your favourite artist, living or dead, and why?
I’m going to choose Inigo Jones – not strictly an ‘artist’ but I think he counts. I love what he did for British architecture and his influence on those who came after him. His buildings transport you straight to the classical beauties of ancient Rome, with an English spin added on. The revolution that he started in design is quite extraordinary.
Name a song that is significant to you and why?
'Dire Straits’ Money for Nothing. It’s a song that was played throughout my childhood. I remember it from as early as when I was three or four, all the way through to a teenager when we used to turn it up loud in my mum’s car and sing at the top of our voices as she drove my friends and I around. I’ve listened to it all my life since and still love it.
Who would play you in a film?
People used to say I looked a bit like Michelle Williams. But I think Kristen Wiig would be pretty funny at it!
Who has had the biggest impact on your career?
There were a couple of key players early on in my career who really made me feel confident that I was doing the right thing – Sarah Durdin-Robertson and through her also Pat Llewellyn who was the queen of food TV.
Which delights you more: garden pottering or kitchen pottering?
Kitchen pottering for sure, even though some might think it’s a bit of a busman’s holiday for me! I absolutely love tinkering away in the kitchen, especially with fellow food-loving friends and a few beers. I also don’t mind whose kitchen it is. I’ve always seemed to be able to settle right in very quickly to someone else’s kitchen!
If you had to choose, are you happier in city or country – and why?
Definitely the country. I just seem to feel more relaxed and at home. I love visiting cities, but am very glad to call the country home. Once I hit my thirties, I was single and decided to move to a cottage in the countryside, living by myself. Everyone thought I was absolutely mad but it was the best decision I’ve ever made.
Early riser or night owl?
A bit of both. On weekdays I naturally wake very early, which I quite like because it gives me a peaceful hour or two before the rest of the house are up. I am not in any way suggesting that I get up and do a work-out at 5am, although I wish I was that person.
How would you describe your style?
I’m a real chameleon, as my wardrobe will attest. There’s everything from huge bright pink fluffy jackets, tie-dye catsuits or floor length sequins to men’s corduroy trousers and old workwear jackets.
Your favourite item of clothing?
I absolutely love the outfit I wore for our second wedding. We had two weddings, one traditional, small and more family-orientated; the second a great big party with 300 friends where we walked down a makeshift aisle to the Star Wars theme tune and sung a Bob Marley song as our hymn!
What job would you do in a parallel life?
An architectural historian, probably specialising in conservation and restoration. It was actually what I studied at university and something I love, which I may well come back to in later life. Who knows?
What pieces from the Cabbages & Roses SS24 have you got your eye on?
I’m afraid I’m going to have to pick a few! The Frilly Shirt in Cotton Voile or the Maud Blouse in White Seersucker with a Bea Tunic in Navy Organic Cotton over the top if it’s chilly.